Nuratau Mountains: walnut groves, village homestays and wild sheep

At a glance

• Where: between Samarkand, Jizzakh and Navoi regions; the villages are 3–4 hours' drive from Samarkand.
• How long: two to four days, often combined with a night at Aydarkul lake.
• Best time: April to June and September to October. Summer is hot in the valleys; winter is quiet and cold.
• Altitude: villages lie at roughly 1,000–1,500 m; the highest point of the range is 2,169 m.

Interesting facts

• The Nuratau range runs for more than 170 km from east to west, with the Aydarkul lakes and the Kyzylkum desert to the north.
• The Nurata State Reserve, created in 1975, protects about 17,750 ha of the mountains. It is home to Severtsov's sheep, a rare wild sheep: about 2,000 survive across the Nuratau and neighbouring ranges.
• The reserve has recorded more than 200 bird species, including golden eagles and griffon vultures, and 847 kinds of plants.
• Village tourism here began in 2008 as a community project. By 2022 some 14 family guesthouses in six villages were hosting visitors, and most of the money goes straight to the families.
• In the gorges near Ukhum, more than 100 rock carvings have been found, from the Bronze Age to the Middle Ages.

What to see and do

The villages of the northern slopes, such as Sentob, Hayat, Majrum and Ukhum, are linked by old paths through gorges, orchards and walnut groves. Walk with a local guide from one village to the next, stopping for tea in a family garden, or ride on mountain horses. Evenings are spent on a raised platform under the trees, over plov, salads, fresh bread and walnut or apricot jam.

On the way, stop in Nurata town. Its Chashma spring stays at about 20 °C all year and is full of fish that no one may catch, fed by pilgrims beside a Friday mosque with 40 wooden columns. Above it are the ruins of a fortress that tradition says Alexander the Great founded in the 4th century BC.

Important notes

• Homestays: rooms are simple and clean, often with mattresses on the floor and shared bathrooms. Hot water and Wi-Fi are not guaranteed.
• Village customs: dress modestly, ask before photographing people, and remove your shoes when entering a home.
• Cash: there are no ATMs in the villages; bring so'm for drinks and tips.
• Nature reserve: some areas need a permit; walk with your guide and stay on the paths.

What to bring

• Walking shoes with a good grip; the paths are stony.
• A hat, sunscreen and a refillable water bottle.
• A warm layer for cool mountain evenings.
• A headlamp and a power bank.
• Long trousers for riding.

Explore it on our 2-day Nuratau hike from Hayat, the horse-riding trips or the 3-day desert and mountains tour. Read more in our Aydarkul and Nuratau guide.