Kunya-Urgench: the medieval capital of Khorezm

At a glance

• Where: in northern Turkmenistan, about 100 km north-west of Dashoguz and close to the Uzbek border near Khiva.
• How long: two to three hours.
• Best time: April–May and September–October.
• Getting there: about 1.5 hours from the Shavat border crossing near Khiva, on our 4-day crossings.

Interesting facts

• UNESCO listed Kunya-Urgench in 2005.
• As Gurganj, it was the capital of the Khorezmshahs, whose empire stretched from the Aral Sea to Persia. In 1221 the Mongols took the city after a long siege, and it was ruined again by Timur's armies between 1372 and 1388.
• The Kutlug-Timur minaret is about 60 m tall, one of the tallest in Central Asia. Its core probably dates from the 11th century; it was restored around 1330.
• The Turabek Khanum mausoleum, from the 14th century, has a dome covered inside with a mosaic of stars and flowers in blue, white and gold.
• The Sufi master Najmeddin Kubra died defending the city against the Mongols in 1221. His mausoleum is still one of the most visited pilgrimage sites in Turkmenistan.

What to see

Start at the Turabek Khanum mausoleum, whose tall portal and tiled dome are the finest building in the city. Nearby, the Kutlug-Timur minaret stands alone on the plain, its brick bands still crisp after almost a thousand years.

Further on, the conical, tiled roof of the Il-Arslan mausoleum (around 1150) and the larger mausoleum of Sultan Tekesh (around 1195) recall the Khorezmshahs at the height of their power. The mausoleum of Najmeddin Kubra is a living holy place, where you will meet families on pilgrimage.

Important notes

• Holy sites: dress modestly, speak quietly and do not photograph people praying.
• Little shade: the monuments are spread out in the open.
• Border: Kunya-Urgench is usually visited straight after crossing from Uzbekistan, so plan the border formalities into your morning.

What to bring

• A hat, sunglasses and water.
• A scarf for women to cover the head at the pilgrimage sites.
• Cash in clean US dollars for the arrival fees at the border.

Kunya-Urgench is on our 4-day crossing from Khiva to Bukhara and the crossing from Bukhara to Khiva.