Issyk-Kul: the warm lake of the Tian Shan

At a glance

• Where: north-eastern Kyrgyzstan; Cholpon-Ata, the main town on the north shore, is about 265 km from Bishkek.
• How long: at least two nights; four or five if you add Karakol and the valleys around it.
• Best time: June to September for swimming; May and October for walks and quiet roads.
• Altitude: the lake lies at 1,607 m.

Interesting facts

• Issyk-Kul is about 180 km long and 60 km wide, covers 6,236 km² and is up to 668 m deep. Among mountain lakes, only Titicaca in South America is larger.
• Its name means "warm lake". Thanks to its depth, slightly salty water and warm springs, it almost never freezes, even when winter nights drop far below zero.
• More than 100 rivers and streams flow towards the lake, but nothing flows out of it.
• UNESCO made Issyk-Kul and its basin a biosphere reserve in 2001.
• On the north shore at Cholpon-Ata, about 2,000 boulders carry rock carvings made between around 800 BC and 1200 AD: ibex, deer, hunters and snow leopards.

The two shores

The north shore is the holiday side: Cholpon-Ata and its neighbours have sandy beaches, guesthouses, resorts and the open-air petroglyph field. In July and August it is busy with families from Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan.

The south shore is wilder and, for many travellers, more beautiful. Skazka Canyon is a maze of red and orange clay towers a short walk from the water. Barskoon gorge has a waterfall and a bust of Yuri Gagarin, who is said to have holidayed here. Near Bokonbaevo, local families keep golden eagles and show how they hunt with them, and yurt camps on the shore make a good base for a night under the stars. At the eastern end, the lake meets Karakol and the red rocks of Jeti-Oguz.

Important notes

• Swimming: the water is pleasant from late June to early September; at other times it is very cold.
• Sun: at this altitude you burn quickly, even when the air feels cool.
• Distances: the drive around the lake is about 440 km; plan the south and north shores on different days.
• Cash: carry som for entrance fees (Skazka charges a small fee in summer), eagle shows and roadside fruit.
• Respect the stones: do not climb on or chalk the petroglyphs.

What to bring

• Swimwear, a towel and sandals for stony beaches.
• High-factor sunscreen, sunglasses and a hat.
• A warm layer for the evenings and for nights in yurt camps.
• Walking shoes for Skazka, Barskoon and Jeti-Oguz.

Issyk-Kul is on all our Kyrgyzstan tours; the 4-day Issyk-Kul tour with Burana and Barskoon and the 5-day tour with Altyn-Arashan spend the most time on its shores. Planning a longer trip? Read Issyk-Kul and Song-Kul: two lakes, two different trips.